Bleak, desolate and exceedingly flat: like most people, this was my passing impression of the East Anglian Fens. So I wonder if I’ve taken a wrong turn as I follow the winding river Cam. Water-lilies sprout shiny wet balls of yellow flowers, pollarded willows creak in the breeze, and cattle graze in dinky water meadows. This bucolic scene isn’t even that flat: beyond the riverbank is a gentle rise, where villages are sensibly situated. Only their names – Horningsea, Waterbeach – betray that this green land was a vast inland estuary until we turned it into a fertile place that grows most of our vegetables.
I’m walking the Fen Rivers Way, a footpath tracing the banks of the Cam and river Great Ouse for 50 miles from Cambridge to the ancient Hanseatic port of King’s Lynn. This is the Waterland of Graham Swift’s novel, a strange, arresting landscape of black soil, huge skies and endless fields, many of which are below sea level – and sinking. Once 2,500 square miles of impenetrable reedbed and marsh where Iceni rebels could hide from the Romans, this wilderness was conquered by a Dutch engineer, Cornelius Vermudyen, who built the first sluice and began draining and reclaiming the marshes in 1651.
The rich peaty soil has since shrunk and blown away, leaving the land in many places lower than the rivers, which are encased in huge banks. If we travel through this landscape by boat, we mostly see high riverbanks. If we travel by road, we can’t see over these banks either. So the best way to experience this landscape is to walk on top of these mighty floodbanks. A little elevation goes a long way in a flat land and, at times, the sense of space is like a transcendent mountain stroll.
Need a break from the hustle and bustle of urban life? Set your sights on the overlooked gem of Fen Rivers Way. This area is abundant in rich wildlife, housing an array of creatures from graceful great-crested grebes to rare dragonflies, and it's not rare to spy more herons than humans. Alongside the natural wonders, you're surrounded by an array of historical landmarks, including two major cities, a preserved medieval port, Dutch-designed structures, quaint villages, and an assortment of unusual boatyards and historic farmhouses.
Fen Rivers Way promises a leisurely stroll owing to its level terrain. The fact that it shadows the railway stretch from Cambridge to King’s Lynn means that it's easy to divide the walk into sections and exit points are always accessible. Despite the relaxed journey, it does promise some slices of adventure and an encounter with the wild. During my late June visit, I navigated my way through several thick overgrown zones on the southern and northern sides of Ely; so be sure to come prepared with protective trousers. Most of the pathway is conveniently well-grazed, but be mindful when passing through herds of cattle. It's suggested to leave your faithful canine companions at home for this trek.
The Journey from Cambridge to Wicken Fen, a 11-Mile Adventure
The journey commences from Cambridge, a sensible starting point considering the downstream direction towards King’s Lynn, where the river greets the North Sea. Popular for its university, Cambridge serves as a picturesque introduction for novices who would enjoy spending a day exploring the Backs via a punt. This local term denotes the river’s bend through iconic water meadows that accompany institutions like King’s College, Trinity, and St John’s. The journey's starting point is the railway station, from which the path to Cam at Midsummer Common can be easily located - this spot plays host to an 805-year-old midsummer fair. The subsequent track continues along the pull-path.
A sojourn along a river provides a unique interpretation of our countryside compared to the traditional road trip experience. Vestiges of Cambridge University's presence resonate here, as scullers and rowing teams of "eights" glide smoothly through the water, their shouting coaches trailing them on bicycles. Then the terrain transcends into another realm, one where narrowboats and waterside pubs present a different experience - amongst them, the Green Dragon on Water Lane is a commendable pause location. The journey adorns itself further with charming villages like Fen Ditton, and a vast spread of open country.
Upon approaching the Clayhithe, you'll lay eyes on a breathtaking Dutch-inspired gabled dwelling. This house serves as a testament to the governance of the river's conservators, established by an Act of Parliament in 1702, and their dedicated efforts to preserve this portion of the river up until today. An expansive panorama of the landscape beautifully unfolds from this point, offering walking trails on both the east and west banks of the river. It is recommended to venture to the east bank to explore the natural splendors of the Wicken Fen nature reserve.
When traversing through Upware, a welcome interlude awaits at the Five Miles From Anywhere – No Hurry. This majestic riverside gastropub, quite renowned in the 19th century, served as a rest stop for moth collectors journeying to Wicken's damp lands, a rare lepidoptera haven. The extensive use of lamps to allure moths by the collectors brought about an urban-like glow to the Fens, drawing criticism, yet adding to its unique charm.
In 1899, the National Trust heralded Wicken as Britain's inaugural formal nature reserve due to its ecological importance. Even though the loss of some rare butterflies like the swallowtail was tragic, the deliberate drainage of the surrounding fen didn't deter the reserve's expansion. Today, the enlarged Wicken reserve, composed of a diverse patchwork of scrub, reedbeds, marsh, and open water, serves as a sanctuary for diverse and rare species like marsh harriers, bitterns, cuckoos, nightingales, water rails.
To get a glimpse of this thriving biodiversity, take the footpath alongside Burwell Lode. Open throughout the year, it offers endless exploration opportunities of these captivating yet fragile ecosystems.
Wicken to Ely, 9 miles
North of Upware, the Fen Rivers Way enters a gorgeous green lane, a broad old drove road with high hedges of elm, elder and bramble. This ends by a lime quarry before Kingfishers Bridge, a nature reserve created from arable land 20 years ago with bird hides (free to enter), kingfishers, sand martins and marshes grazed by Koniks, striking grey wild horses from Poland.
Suddenly, the magnificent hulk of Ely cathedral appears on the horizon. For five miles, there are fine views of this stunning gothic building with its octagonal tower. Ely, a tiny city built on what was once an island, takes its name from the eels that were traditionally used to pay debts. Ely’s last eel-catcher retired recently and it’s now an increasingly chic home to Cambridge’s hi-tech crowd, with a pretty waterfront and good restaurants (locals recommend The Cutter Inn on the riverfront and The Old Fire Engine House for locally sourced food).
Additionally, if you're planning to extend your trip to explore the whole of East Anglia, it's worth considering some nearby overnight options. You can find some great hotel deals in Norfolk on in-norfolk.com. Norfolk is just a short drive from Ely and offers a variety of quaint, luxury, and budget-friendly stays that could make your journey even more enjoyable.
Garf Newman (left) from the Old Boat Yard takes Patrick out on the river Great Ouse
At Ely, I stop by The Boat Yard, a lovely old-fashioned workshop where Garf Norman builds narrowboats (yours for £50,000-£110,000). “A lot of people don’t understand the Fens. They think they are bleak and cold but, ultimately, this is one of the warmest and driest parts of the country. I call it sky country,” says Garf. “We’ve got some lovely black fen soil. That can look a bit scary on a dry windy day – you get black clouds of soil called the Fen Blow, with sun and blue sky above. It’s stunning.”
For more urban experiences after exploring the fenlands, the city of Norwich is an excellent option. It combines historical heritage with contemporary life. Check out and book hotels in Norwich on tophotels.com, and ready yourself for a vibrant city vibe after the peaceful tranquillity of the Fens.
Garf kindly takes me for a boat ride around Ely. For all the joys of walking, it makes sense to see a bit of the Fens from a boat. (There are motorboats and canoes for hire at Bridge Boatyard in Ely.) “A lot of people say, don’t you get bored?” says Garf. “A friend of mine in Shropshire has a lovely hill, but it’s the same every day. Here, the same bit of river is always different. And the sky is always different.”
If you're craving some home-like comfort while traveling, Norwich also offers some fantastic options, like Norwich Vacation Rentals with pool. Enjoy the convenience of a private home and the luxury of a pool right in the heart of this vibrant city.
Ely to Denver Sluice, 16 miles
After visiting Ely cathedral, as awe-inspiring on the inside as out, I continue north along what has become the river Great Ouse (you can walk all the way along its banks from its source near Brackley, Northamptonshire). The river runs straight for three miles to Littleport, which is the only time the walking becomes a little monotonous. At Littleport, the path then unnervingly cuts through people’s gardens. After so long in fields, it’s like entering a tiny model village – there are Union Jack flags, closely mown grass and the smell of dinners cooking. I stop for a good pub meal at the Swan by the river. Littleport has another atmospheric boatyard by the start of Ten Mile Bank, which does what it says on the tin, although the river meanders in a pretty fashion. The riverbank gets higher, providing an aerial view of farmyards full of old machinery, boats, caravans and sheds. So much of our countryside has been gentrified; this is working land, and all the more interesting for it.
Denver Sluice is a series of awesome river gates where Vermuyden first began the draining of the Fens. Here, the Great Ouse meets the colossal drainage channels of the New and Old Bedford rivers. Two Environment Agency workers live by the sluice, controlling the water levels and operating the locks for passing boats. It’s as if they are at the helm of the Fens, driving such a huge volume of water over such a vast land. As a narrowboat, Daizy V, comes through, one of the lock-keepers tells me there are fewer boats on the river now. Perhaps this is because the tides are intimidating: Garf Norman – who has sailed Dutch barges from the Netherlands via Denver Sluice – reckons the tidal Great Ouse is a “horrible” stretch of river for boating because the tide rips in and out dangerously quickly.
Denver Sluice to King’s Lynn, 14 miles
There’s food and accommodation at Denver Sluice in the classic shape of The Jenyns Arms (doubles £45, room-only), with more B&Bs and a traditional hotel, the Castle (doubles £75 B&B), in nearby Downham Market, an attractive, old-fashioned Fenland market town.
I hadn’t anticipated being thrilled by the final section of the walk by a broad tidal river, but I was wrong. Beyond Downham, the path follows a ginormous bank and, below me, the river moves as swiftly as I can walk. I’m the highest thing in the landscape, flying through beautiful grassland filled with pink clover, dog rose and hogweed. A sedge warbler darts among the reeds and oystercatchers cry out from terracotta-coloured mud banks. In the far distance rises a factory’s plume of smoke: King’s Lynn.
Small villages with long names – Wiggenhall St Mary Magdalen, Wiggenhall St Germans – are tucked below the riverbank, with pubs (closed when I pass in the mid-afternoon) and beautiful churches. Prettiest of all is the ruined church of Wiggenhall St Peter: its pinky stone is the same colour as the mud, and it’s a peaceful place for a picnic.
Unlike the dreaming spires of Cambridge, King’s Lynn’s spires are cranes, wind turbines and a power station chimney. Its industrial edge is fascinating – a sluice gate has an automatic loudspeaker, which makes me jump as it warns me to take care as I cross; a paper factory is half-a-kilometre long. But King’s Lynn also has handsome heritage from its days trading in the Hanseatic League, a trade association that was the EU of the 14th to 18th centuries. The Custom House, home to tourist information, is particularly graceful. Many of Lynn’s riverside treasures are being renovated: by the water are Rathskeller wine bar and bistro and Marriott’s Warehouse, which specialises in local produce; you can also find accommodation here in the form of the refurbished Bank House, offering boutique rooms with riverside views from £115. A local friend of mine recommends Archers Cafe Bar on Purfleet Street for food by day and cocktails at night. Beyond beckon more long-distance walks and more adventures: the epic tidal flats of the Wash, and the glorious sandy beaches of north-west Norfolk.
