Stretching just 100 miles in length, the Saguenay River in Quebec embarks on a breathtaking journey to meet the St. Lawrence River, commencing as a slender, turbulent stream emerging from a northern lake. Along its course, the river is harnessed momentarily to fuel the aluminum smelters of Chicoutimi, the principal town in northwestern Quebec. After this brief reprieve, the river resumes its untamed nature, expanding and deepening as it meanders past the imposing granite formations that define the sole navigable fjord in North America.
Explore accommodations in Quebec at http://www.quebechotels.info/en/.
Traversing through the Saguenay Provincial Park, the fjord carves a path through a pristine expanse of granite cliffs and secluded coves adorned with untouched clusters of evergreens and underbrush. With its precipitous walls reaching heights of up to 1,500 feet, the fjord's vertical faces are scarcely home to vegetation. These imposing natural impediments historically steered explorers and entrepreneurs traveling up the St. Lawrence towards more welcoming shores.
Exploring the intricate network of villages, one will find a blend of fishermen’s traditions and creative pursuits. As one ventures further inland, the landscape unfolds with captivating formations, offering sanctuary to diverse wildlife and outdoor enthusiasts alike.
Beneath the surface, the Saguenay reveals a vibrant ecosystem, sustained by the convergence of fresh and saltwater, attracting an impressive array of marine life, from majestic whales to delicate shrimp, within its deep, glacier-carved channels.
Exploring the breathtaking Saguenay region of Quebec offers visitors an array of captivating experiences to indulge in. Immerse yourself in the awe-inspiring river and forest panoramas, while catching glimpses of mesmerizing sea creatures. Take a day cruise, sailing beneath the soaring cliffs or opt for a coastal vantage point, allowing you to admire the majestic sights from high above.
For wildlife enthusiasts, embark on a remarkable voyage aboard tour boats specifically designed to encounter awe-inspiring whales up close and personal. After a day filled with exhilarating adventures, indulge in the charm of the area's small French-style inns, offering delectable French menus that are sure to tempt your taste buds. Extend your stay, allowing yourself another day to revel in the wonders of this extraordinary destination.
Quebec's stunning Saguenay region first captivated European explorers in 1534, when Jacques Cartier stumbled upon a land of untapped wealth. While his hopes of discovering a golden "Kingdom" were unfounded, Cartier's glowing reviews convinced France to lay claim to the territory. Subsequent adventurers revealed a bountiful array of natural resources including timber, furs, and hydroelectric power.
Lac St.-Jean, a circular body of water spanning 375 square miles, served as the primary source of the Saguenay River. This picturesque area was once the domain of trappers and loggers, until a devastating fire in 1870 razed miles of forested lands along its shores. However, these tragic events cleared the path for agricultural practices and paved the way for the development and industrialization of the Lac St.-Jean/Saguenay region.
Experience the majestic beauty of Quebec's extraordinary Saguenay region. Flowing from the eastern end of the lake, the Saguenay River meanders through the awe-inspiring 20-mile-wide granite mass known as the Ke'nogami rock, before surging towards the industrial areas that tap into its power.
One of the most captivating sights along the river is the beginning of the fiord, found just downstream from Chicoutimi in the city known as La Baie des Ha!Ha! Named after the 16th-century French term for "dead end," this location signifies a point where early explorers could no longer navigate the river. As the river plunges into a breathtaking canyon, towering cliffs rise to impressive heights, casting shadows that engulf the surroundings.
For an opportunity to witness the grandeur of the fiord, embark on a cruise departing from Chicoutimi or Baie-Ste.-Catherine, a charming resort town situated along the St. Lawrence River. These scenic cruises will allow you to immerse yourself in the splendor of Quebec's Saguenay region, offering a remarkable journey through nature's wonders.
Embark on an unforgettable adventure aboard the La Marjolaine II, a remarkable 97-foot-long ship that offers all-day, half-day, and evening excursions throughout the months of June to September. Departing from Chicoutimi, this magnificent vessel takes you along the river, guiding you towards the awe-inspiring Saguenay Provincial Park.
While cruising, keep an eye out for a captivating sight - a statue of the Virgin gracefully perched on a towering 605-foot bluff. As you marvel at this remarkable statue, it becomes clear that Saguenay Provincial Park is a true gem. Spanning an impressive 173 square miles, the park boasts an intricate network of canyons, palisades, and meandering streams that create hidden enclaves and prevent a comprehensive view of the park's grandeur.
After exploring the park, the cruise takes you back upriver, where you will have the opportunity to revel in the beauty of the picturesque Ste.-Rose-du-Nord while enjoying a delightful lunch stop.
Ste.-Rose-du-Nord, fondly known as "the most beautiful little village" by the Quebecois and referred to as "Women's Downfall" by the local indigenous people, is a charming and vibrant town nestled in a picturesque valley between two gentle hills, adding to the natural beauty of the fiord. The town's main attraction lies in its breathtaking panoramic views of the mighty Saguenay River and the towering fiord walls. Explore the area and discover a handful of shops offering locally-made handicrafts and delightful restaurants serving delicious salmon sourced from the river.
As you sail aboard La Marjolaine II along the tranquil Saguenay River, your journey will be peppered with occasional sightings of large cargo ships or a group of barges. From the ship's deck, you can catch a glimpse of the nearby villages, which are mere minutes away, while craning your neck to admire the awe-inspiring heights of the fiord. The peaceful river remains calm, undisturbed by the wind, creating a serene atmosphere without any sign of waves or whitecaps.
Exploring the Saguenay region offers a multitude of breathtaking experiences, whether it's embarking on a scenic half-day cruise from the park headquarters to witness the highest parts of the fiord or venturing to the eastern end at Baie-Ste.-Catherine for a captivating boat journey to Cap Trinite's remarkable 1,350-foot summit.
Additionally, the mountainous Saguenay Provincial Park is a must-visit destination, boasting sheer walls, challenging paths, and captivating exhibits at the visitor center that illustrate how the deep Saguenay valley was sculpted by ancient glaciers.
A journey to Quebec's Saguenay region offers a remarkable opportunity to witness the magnificent marine life that calls the area home. At the meeting point of the Saquenay and St. Lawrence rivers, cruise boats venture out to explore the fish-rich waters, where majestic whales gracefully swim. One such vessel is the impressive Cavalier des Mers, a three-deck, 96-foot-long ship that embarks from Baie-Ste.-Catherine. Offering three- or six-hour whale-watching expeditions, it promises an unforgettable experience.
The Saguenay region's allure extends beyond its breathtaking fiord. It is the captivating whales, however, that truly etch themselves into the memory of visitors. Previously perceived as distant creatures observed only through the lens of nature documentaries, witnessing these marine mammals up close is a genuinely awe-inspiring encounter. Surfaces from mere yards away, the whales transform from mere objects of curiosity into majestic beings, leaving spectators in awe. Among the species that can be observed are the enchanting blues, the graceful finbacks, the adorable white belugas, and the striking minkes.
Spanning across the St. Lawrence River, the scenic beauty of the area is amplified by its expansive width, surpassing even that of the Chesapeake Bay. Although my visit took place in August, the weather had a touch of chill whenever the ship was stationary, and an undeniable coldness when it sailed through the open waters.
As the Cavalier des Mers gracefully entered the heart of the magnificent feeding grounds, its engines came to a hushed hum. The captain, unable to navigate any closer to the whales, patiently waited for the majestic creatures to make their approach. While the cruises were advertised as bilingual, the need for translation quickly became irrelevant as the cry of "baleine bleue," "beluga," or "fin" echoed through the air, understood by all. Moments later, the colossal mammals emerged from the water, resembling mighty submarines and leaving a trail of misty breath in their wake.
Among these sea giants were the smaller belugas, reaching a modest size of only 14 feet. In pairs or trios, they elegantly swam towards the ship's side, skillfully submerging themselves just a few yards before a potential collision. With their doll-like faces and captivating large eyes, these delightful creatures were a sight to behold.
During the three-hour cruise, the ship dedicated a significant amount of time on the whales' feeding grounds, providing us with the incredible opportunity to witness various species up close. We were fortunate enough to observe numerous beluga, minke (reaching lengths of up to 27 feet), and finback whales (reaching lengths of up to 65 feet), with sightings occurring within a close proximity of 50 yards from the ship. However, the majestic blue whales, known for their cautious nature, generally veered a few hundred yards away, yet their enormous size allowed us to easily make them out.
Although our time on the whaling cruise seemed to pass too quickly, we were constantly engaged during the journey back by a captivating lecture and captivating whale-related videos provided by a knowledgeable naturalist. Despite the language barrier as the presentation was in French, we were still able to grasp the content. (It's important to note that Quebec is officially a bilingual province, although French remains the dominant language outside of Quebec City and Montreal. Initially, the boat captain communicated in both French and English, but later focused solely on French.)
During our return to La Malbaie, a charming waterfront town located 40 miles southwest of Baie-Ste.-Catherine, we were captivated by its unique geography. Nestled on either side of the Rivie`re-Malbaie, the town comprises two villages: La Malbaie Cap-a`-L-Aigle on the north side of the river and La Malbaie Pointe-au-Pic on the southern shore. As we gazed out from the city, we were treated to breathtaking views of the expansive St. Lawrence River, accompanied by occasional sightings of massive black shapes that could only be whales.
For those seeking a taste of luxury, La Malbaie Pointe-au-Pic is home to the esteemed Hotel Manoir Richelieu, an iconic resort that has stood the test of time. Additionally, the hillside above the Manoir is dotted with charming auberges (inns) where visitors can find comfort and relaxation. This resort town attracts many Quebecois travelers, and its accommodations are renowned for their top-notch sports facilities and delectable cuisine. We had the pleasure of staying at the Auberge les Trois Canards, where we indulged in a variety of outdoor activities such as tennis, croquet, shuffleboard, as well as taking advantage of amenities like the swimming pool and putting green.
Indulging in La Malbaie's culinary treasures proved to be an unexpected delight on our Quebec adventure. While the inn's specialty was undoubtedly duck, it was the memorable combination of a unique appetizer and a regional dessert that left a lasting impression.
During dinner, we were encouraged to savor thick slices of bread, generously spread with flavorful butters from large urns, and then grilled in an open fireplace. The result was a truly delectable treat that left us yearning for more.
Just when we thought our taste buds couldn't handle any more deliciousness, we were presented with a regional delicacy that took dessert to new heights. Maple sugar pie, a decadent creation composed almost entirely of pure maple sugar, was accompanied by a luscious serving of heated, thick crystal syrup. The sugar content in this pie was nothing short of mind-boggling, overshadowing even the most indulgent hot fudge sundae.
Exploring La Malbaie's remarkable cuisine was an unforgettable experience, showcasing the unique flavors and traditions of the region. Venture beyond the ordinary and immerse yourself in a culinary journey unlike any other.
Exploring the magnificent Saguenay region is an endeavor worth undertaking. To reach this breathtaking destination, one can embark on a cruise from either Baie-Ste.-Catherine on the St. Lawrence or Chicoutimi, situated approximately 100 miles upstream on the Saguenay River. Accessing Chicoutimi from Quebec City involves a scenic journey northward along Route 175, spanning a distance of 130 miles. Alternatively, Baie-Ste.-Catherine serves as the launch point for mesmerizing whale-watching cruises along the St. Lawrence, and can be reached by traversing Route 138, which covers approximately 140 miles northeast of Quebec City.
When it comes to finding accommodations, the Saguenay region offers a variety of options to suit every traveler's preferences. Whether you prefer a cozy bed and breakfast, a luxurious hotel, or a serene campsite surrounded by nature, Saguenay has it all. Staying in this picturesque region allows you to immerse yourself in the scenic beauty and vibrant culture that the area has to offer.
If you're seeking accommodations in Chicoutimi, three options are available for you. The Auberge des Gouverneurs, Motel le Montagnais, and Hotel Chicoutimi offer comfortable stays. With rates ranging from approximately $50 to $90 per night, you'll find a suitable choice for your budget.
If Baie-Ste.-Catherine doesn't have many lodging options, consider staying in La Malbaie, located 40 miles south. In La Malbaie, you'll have the opportunity to experience the grandeur of the Hotel Manoir Richelieu, a historic resort overlooking the St. Lawrence River. Additionally, numerous charming auberges provide tranquil accommodations and exceptional cuisine. The Hotel Manoir Richelieu offers a range of sports and entertainment facilities, ensuring you a memorable stay. Rates at the hotel start at about $95 for a double room, excluding meals, or approximately $180 including breakfast and dinner.