Discover the Magic of Skiing and Gastronomy in Quebec
Embarking on a winter adventure in Quebec brings forth an unparalleled experience where skiing and gastronomy intertwine seamlessly. While in search of the perfect slopes amidst an uncertain winter, my son and I found ourselves immersed in a culinary exploration like no other.
Arriving at Le Massif, I couldn't help but question if what I was witnessing was a figment of my imagination. Where were the typical crowded lift lines? In fact, where were the lifts? To my surprise, a harmonious blend of Anglo and French Canadians effortlessly slid down the slopes and gracefully glided towards the glistening St. Lawrence River. As I puzzled over whether to indulge in the unique flavors of seal tartare or opt for a more traditional dish like codfish flan or osso buco for lunch at the cafeteria, my train of thought was interrupted by my 11-year-old son, Luke.
After the thrilling adventure at Le Massif, it was time to unwind and settle for the night. Wondering where to stay in Quebec proved to be another adventure in itself. From luxurious hotels offering breathtaking views of the city skyline, to cozy, rustic lodges in the heart of the Quebec landscape - the options seemed endless. Wanting to make the best decision, we decided to use a great online resource to compare and book our accommodation. If you're planning a trip to Quebec and are unsure about where to stay, http://www.quebechotels.info/en/ proved to be an invaluable tool for us in finding the perfect place to rest and rejuvenate after our exciting day.
While our primary goal was to conquer the slopes, Quebec's vibrant culinary scene became an enchanting addition to our journey. The tantalizing flavors and creative presentations showcased Quebec's rich cultural heritage and left us craving for more. With every dish, we discovered a new aspect of the province's culinary prowess.
As we ventured further into our skiing adventure, the enthralling fusion of thrilling outdoor activities and exquisite dining experiences escalated. Each day, we found ourselves blissfully exploring the slopes, relishing in the breathtaking scenery, and eagerly anticipating our next culinary adventure.
With a burst of excitement, my companion urged us on, and I eagerly agreed, embracing the opportunity to brush up on my rusty French phrases during our time in Quebec. As we descended towards the river, navigating through nearly deserted slopes and catching glimpses of the breathtaking off-piste glade, it became clear that we were in for an exhilarating adventure.
To the left, Baie St. Paul awaited, tempting me with the promise of fondue and a variety of cheeses from the renowned Charlevoix fromageries - the perfect dinner to indulge in, especially with the added benefit of a 20 percent discount courtesy of the Canadian dollar conversion. To the right, Quebec City, one of the oldest cities in North America, beckoned with its abundance of fine dining options that we knew we couldn't possibly experience all in our brief visit. After a long and rewarding nine-and-a-half-hour drive from New York, we were certain it had been well worth the effort.
Gradually, the prospect of a ski getaway in Quebec drew me in, much like the slow creeping of an impending February rainstorm that spelled holiday disaster for the Eastern ski resorts, stretching from Pennsylvania's Camelback Mountain Resort to Killington, Vt. Can one outpace climate change? Potentially. To my surprise, there are three prime ski mountains situated near Quebec City, including Stoneham, Mont-Sainte-Anne, and Le Massif. Each of these ski resorts boasted a substantial snow base, thanks to the traditionally heavy snowfall in December and January. Notably, forecasts warned of potential rain in Quebec as well. However, the locals provided such extensive lists of alternative activities, it became an offer I couldn't refuse. With my son ready in the back of my Honda, we were off on our great adventure.
Exploring the Diverse Attraction of Mont-Sainte-Anne
A critical decision to make when planning a trip to Quebec is the type of holiday you're looking for. Is it an upscale vacation with a European city flavour, with a sporadic trip to the snowy hills? Or is it a ski-marathon vacation punctuated by a culinary adventure in the city? Our preference, influenced by my son's undeveloped epicurean sensibilities, was the latter. We therefore settled at Mont-Sainte-Anne de Beaupré. We enjoyed the comfortable amenities in our two-room suite at the Chalets Montmorency, complemented by the availability of a saltwater swimming facility and a Jacuzzi. Suppose we had a slightly amplified monetary backup of Canadian dollars; we could have made the Château Mont-Sainte Anne, with its authentic outdoor Nordic spa, our home base, as it's a prominent choice among many vacationers in Quebec.
In Quebec, skiing enthusiasts can now enjoy the convenience of booking combined lift and lodging packages through the new Charlevoix regional website. This user-friendly platform allows visitors to easily find and reserve accommodations at all three mountains in the area, including Mont-Sainte-Anne, Le Massif, and Stoneham. With just a few clicks, you can hit the slopes in no time.
During my visit, I entrusted my son to the capable hands of Claude Dion, a charismatic French-Canadian instructor who assured me that he would eliminate any remnants of my son's American snow plow technique. While he took care of my little one, I embarked on an adventure to the summit, eager to test my skiing skills and see if they had eroded along with my proficiency in French.
For those interested in planning a trip, Chalet Montmorency offers a four-day package that includes lodging and daily lift tickets for both one child and one adult. Priced at 891.53 Canadian dollars or approximately $167 per night, this package not only provides access to Mont Ste. Anne but also grants you the opportunity to explore the other two mountains in the region. Seize the chance to embrace the thrilling slopes and stunning landscapes that await.
As an avid skier hailing from New Orleans, I typically stick to the more intermediate slopes. However, my recent experience on the trails of Quebec left me questioning the true nature of difficulty levels. One particular trail, "Rigolo" or Joke, proved to be quite the challenge as I found myself repeatedly colliding with the frost-coated pines. It made me ponder the double entendre nature of the French language; was it named "Joke" because it offered an amusingly easy ride through the woods or was it intended as a humorous disguise for a difficult black-level slope?
After being passed by yet another 8-year-old shredding the slopes, I summoned my bravery and ventured onto a wider trail that revealed a breathtaking view of the expansive icy St. Lawrence River. This majestic river mesmerizes all who lay eyes on it, dominating the scenic vistas from Montreal to the Eastern Provinces.
When it comes to exploring Mont-Sainte-Anne, there is no shortage of options. With three faces of the 2,625-foot peak and a total of 71 trails, there is something for every skier. Whether you prefer the sunny slopes on the south-facing side or the shaded, snow-covered trails on the north side, you can pick your slope based on the weather. And if you're looking to avoid the crowds, head to the empty western slope, a local favorite during the quieter periods around Christmas and the Quebec winter break from March 4th to 8th in 2019.
For frigid days, the south slope is a haven of abundant sun, while the north side ensures snow well into late April. Mont-Sainte-Anne offers a diverse skiing experience, allowing you to make the most of the stunning landscapes and variable conditions. Don't miss the chance to immerse yourself in the natural beauty of the mountain while shredding the slopes.
As we reached the base of the mountain, the ski instructor shared an interesting technique with me. He mentioned using "virtual bluebirds" that my son, Luke, would wave at on every turn to master parallel skiing. Eager to put it to the test, we hopped onto the gondola and ascended swiftly to the summit. To my surprise, Luke's newfound skills left me struggling to catch up.
However, our skiing adventure took an unexpected turn when a light freezing rain began to fall. Luke, dressed in his brown parka, soon resembled a beautifully polished piece of lacquered mahogany. Recognizing the impact of climate change, we reluctantly decided to call it a day. Little did we know that to the south, the situation was even worse. My partner informed me via text that New York was experiencing a staggering 78 degrees.
Discovering the Culinary Delights of Old Quebec
Unfortunately, unfavorable weather conditions prevented us from hitting the slopes the next day. However, this setback offered us the perfect opportunity to delve into the enchanting city and its surrounding areas. Unlike the bustling summer months when tourists flock to the numerous restaurants and congest the narrow streets, our winter visit in February allowed us to explore the city with ease.
After making our way from Mont-Sainte-Anne, we decided to take a detour to Île d’Orléans, a captivating island characterized by sprawling maple forests dotted with vineyards and quaint farms. Our first stop was Cassis Monna et Filles, where we indulged in a wine tasting experience. For only 2.50 Canadian dollars, I had the chance to sample various wines crafted from the black currents cultivated by M. Monna and his two daughters. This delightful range of wines included the refreshing La Fruité and the more robust Le Capiteux. Impressed by our tasting, we couldn't resist purchasing a bottle of wine and three delectable jams that caught Luke's interest. With our culinary souvenirs in tow, we made our way back to the city to savor a delightful midday meal.
A deep dive into Quebec's culinary landscape might be a bit of a stretch for a ski-focused feature. However, local foodie and celebrated chef Nancy Hinton did a fine job encapsulating it. According to Hinton, Quebec City dances to its own beat; its food culture is a vibrant clash of tradition and innovation, balancing youthful audacity with a nod to the past—truly a distinctive blend of nouveau and classic.
Our pick for the modern was Moine Echanson, where a cool, free-spirited waiter from the distant North adeptly translated the scribbled chalkboard menu without blinking. The restaurant boasted a rich collection of self-imported, biodynamic wines and a notably short list of four main dishes: seal tartare; a plate-full of razor clams, oysters, and cod fritters; a venison osso buco; and a singed dish of foie d’agneau. Seeing my son's crinkled face, the waiter quickly reassured, “You can try the cod fritter, it’s similar to a doughnut.” To our surprise, it was anything but.
For our subsequent dining experience, we embarked on an old-school culinary adventure aimed at engaging even the youngest palates. Nestled not far from the iconic Le Château Frontenac, is a culinary gem waiting to be discovered, Le Continentale. The eatery prides itself on having preserved its ambience that seems frozen in time from the early 70s. It's here where suave, white-tuxedo-clad waiters masterfully concoct Caesar salads tableside, and their flambés command attention, taking one back in time to the days of Julia Child's cooking exploits. This restaurant showcases the charm and grace of a bygone era, with flambés lighting up to two feet high, a sight our waiter graciously clarified. He had once been a snowboard enthusiast but after a nasty fall resulting in a broken wrist during a rail trick, he abandoned the slopes to safeguard his livelihood - creating spectacle with culinary flares like the remarkable 'duck a l'orange'.
Embarking from the Parking Space to the Ski Slopes
Contemplating a city break in Quebec, we might have been inclined to spend our nights at the Auberge de St. Antoine. This architectural delight, boasting of a minimalist design, further enchants with its collection of 17th-century French relics. It provides a winter discount of 40 percent, and not just that, it is conveniently located within walking distance from the old town, while also maintaining good connectivity to the highways that lead to the ski locations. However, given that we had a couple more mountains left to tackle, we took to the road. Come morning, and we found ourselves at the intriguingly inverted Le Massif de Charlevoix.
Le Massif, located in Quebec, offers a unique skiing experience where you can ski right from the parking lot. This is because the mountain is a 2,600-foot high bulge in the St. Lawrence riverbank, allowing you to park at the top. The breathtaking views from the mountain give even the easy trails a trompe l'oeil plunge effect, providing a thrilling experience without the fear that often comes with steep slopes.
If you're a seasoned skier seeking an adrenaline rush, Le Massif has 15 hectares of off-piste glades that are guaranteed to make you scream. But fear not, if skiing isn't your cup of tea, you can still enjoy the incredible view by embarking on North America's longest sledding run. For $44.95 (U.S.), you can take a snowcat to the top of a separate slope and sled down 7.5 kilometers, taking in the stunning scenery along the way. Keep in mind that the round-trip sledding adventure typically takes about two hours.
As the day neared its end, we found ourselves heading towards our final destination in Quebec, so a quick stop over at the Le Germain Hotel and Spa located in Baie St. Paul was necessary for a light repast. Braving through the thick snowfall in Quebec City, we ignored hazard signs warning us about possible moose encounters instructing to report it by dialing 511, and finally made our way to the welcoming abode of Le Manoir du Lac Delage.
Embracing my last day in Quebec, I indulged in an invigorating Nordic Spa session at the Manoir prior to meeting Jacques Dugal, the forever enthusiast - a resident of Stoneham Mountain and its former assistant mayor. Enlightening me about the unique topographical feature of the place, Mr. Dugal explained, "This place is like a natural bowl shielded from the river, which blesses us with an abundance of delightful, soft powder."
While Stoneham may not boast the Massif river views, it compensates with spectacular scenic views of Jacques-Cartier National Park. As the closest resort to the city among the three, it is a popular spot for local enthusiasts who find joy in a swift post-work ski run or a playful session in its feature-packed terrain park, boasting an Olympic-sized halfpipe. Night skiing is available throughout the week on a variety of 19 trails, contributing to its appeal for evening activities. In addition, the proximity to the popular brasserie, La Souche , enhances its status as a lively night spot for visitors outside the town.
My desire was to celebrate the frosty season amongst the vibrant, bilingual locals of Canada. The remarkable winter offerings were aplenty! Picture this, an impressive ice hotel standing tall in its icy splendor. Imagine experiencing the thrill of tubing in North America's largest park, an adrenaline-pumping activity that's hard to rival. Visualize indulging in a wholesome meal at maple sugaring shacks such as Cabane LeClerc, serving us hearty flapjacks, pork cured in maple, and savory meat pies, replenishing our energy for the journey ahead. Picture ending your adventure at "Foret Perdue," a mystical destination nestled amidst Trois-Rivières. Here, you'd have the chance to glide on smooth, Zambonied ice paths, encapsulated by miles of serene forest blanketed in frost.
Alas, as the school holiday drew to a close, obligations back in my homeland began to resurface. We braced ourselves for the lengthy drive back, the anticipation of our home's ordinary life paling in comparison to the extraordinary winter wonderland we were reluctantly leaving behind.