When the first call to your boss involves being stranded on a (sub)tropical island, it may sound like a hilarious excuse. But after the third call, it starts to feel like your career might be going down the drain due to inclement weather.
My original plan was to spend just 48 hours on Lord Howe Island, a picturesque volcanic remnant located approximately 600km off the coast of New South Wales. However, fate had other plans, as I ended up spending a whopping 168 hours on this mesmerizing island.
During my extended stay, I had the opportunity to explore the island's breathtaking landscapes, indulge in its diverse marine life, and immerse myself in the local culture. Despite my unplanned extension, I was fortunate to find comfortable hotels in New South Wales at newsouthwaleshotels.net that offered stunning views of the island's natural beauty.
Lord Howe Island is a true paradise, resembling something straight out of a fairy tale. Its crystal-clear turquoise waters, not the ordinary blue often mislabeled as turquoise by unimaginative writers, coupled with its lush green hills, make this destination absolutely breathtaking.
Upon arrival at this breathtaking subtropical island, two distinct aspects immediately catch your attention. Firstly, the absence of phone reception and unreliable Wi-Fi signals create a sense of isolation that I was not mentally prepared for. Surprisingly, my gen X travel companion, whom I will refer to as MQ, considered this lack of communication integral to the island's allure. As I found myself occasionally flipping through Kim Kardashian's book, Selfish, in a desperate attempt to recreate the digital experience of Instagram, I couldn't help but marvel at the island's detachment from the modern world.
The second remarkable feature that becomes evident is the unparalleled friendliness of the locals. With a population of approximately 350, one might expect the usual small-town feuds and petty grievances. However, to my surprise, every individual I encountered exuded genuine happiness and cheerfully greeted anyone passing by, creating an atmosphere of warmth and hospitality.
Transportation in this subtropical paradise is a well-thought-out affair, prioritizing the safety of pedestrians and cyclists by limiting cars and enforcing a speed limit of 25kmh.
As I stroll along the makeshift main street on my first afternoon, a friendly woman's voice catches my attention, complimenting my hair. Such warmth and spontaneity continue to accompany me throughout my stay, with another woman appreciating my choice of pants the next day, and multiple individuals praising my stylish jumper on the third day.
To delve deeper into the island's culture and news, I purchase a copy of the local paper, the Lord Howe Island Signal. A print treasure, the 38 pages of bound, A4-sized paper offer an insight into the community's stories, including a touching eulogy of a 90-year-old man, penned by someone who shares the same name.
Hailing from a country town myself, I instantly resonate with the extraordinary friendliness and sense of community that thrive here. It's as if this small island community embodies the contagious charm of Shane Warne on Tinder, ensuring every interaction is filled with genuine warmth and hospitality.
First Day Adventure
We arrived and settled down at our charming abode, Earl’s Anchorage, tucked away near Anderson Road, which can be regarded as the local hub. In close proximity, we found the alluring Anchorage restaurant, a functional post office, a traditional general store and a highly sustainable food co-op. All of these offering us a remarkable view of the lagoon, with a beautiful backdrop of Lord Howe’s giants – Gowing and Lidgbird Mountains.
Our spacious bungalow priced at $430 during off-peak season and $950 in peak season, boasts a well-equipped open kitchen, a separate bedroom, a refreshing shower, and a combined living/dining room complete with large windows. These windows provide a panoramic view of our subtropical environment filled with towering palm trees.
Experiencing the divine espresso creamacotta at Arajilla Lodge is indeed a pleasure.
We savor our meals at Arajilla Retreat, thanks to the convenient transport offered by the personnel at Anchorage. The courteous staff across several restaurants and resorts provide transportation at night and in a scenario where you're stranded, you can feel free to hitch a ride, a common practice on the island.
My dining experience at Arajilla was memorable, having tasted the superior kingfish that I'll dare say was the best I've had so far. The fresh catch of the day was evidently that morning's. Adding to this remarkable meal was the tantalizing sweet potato and coconut soup for starters. The grand closure of the meal was a decadent triple chocolate torte complemented by salted caramel burnt fig, vincotto spheres, and the unforgettable espresso creamacotta. Interestingly, the creamacotta was cleverly served in a hollowed-out eggshell, making it as visually appealing as it was delicious!
Day two
We ride our bikes to Old Settlement beach, which we are told in summer is full of turtles. We are not here in summer though, we are here in the first days of winter, so the beach is empty but still hypnotisingly blue.
We trek to Ned’s beach where fish swim so close to the shore to be fed you wonder how they do not beach themselves. There is an honesty system for snorkels, wetsuits and paddleboards, meaning you put $10 in a box and help yourself. There are about 50 fish close to shore. I’m surprised to discover that I’m scared of big groups of medium-sized fish. I squeal my way through the throng, scared that they, I don’t know, are going to nibble me? Or I will squash and kill them?
As I ventured out into the calm waters, both myself and the fish remained unscathed. The rocks, although not perilous, mark the threshold to a magnificent underwater world filled with vibrant red and green coral and an array of colorful fish.
Prior to embarking on our hike, we stopped by the Anchorage restaurant to grab some delectable ham and salad rolls. While sitting on the beach, soaking in the breathtaking views, we couldn't help but contemplate the simple joys of life. It's during these moments, the long weekend's end looms, and we start making promises to ourselves - to eat less dessert, cut back on red wine, exercise more frequently, and dedicate time to personal writing projects.
On the shoreline of Ned's Beach, you'll marvel as you witness schools of fish close enough to be fed by hand.
For a sumptuous dinner, head to Capella Lodge, Lord Howe Island's epitome of luxury. The resort's most lavish suite features a private plunge pool and an open-air bath, making it an indulgent retreat. It provides a marvelous view of the lagoon and the mountains, right from the bed. In addition, you can opt for dining on the deck, all this luxury costs a nightly rate of $1,300 per person.
At Capella, the room tariff encompasses the costs of not only your breakfast, lunch, and dinner but also your drinks. You're in for a gourmet treat as the menu is altered daily tailored around the fresh ingredients that the chef has to offer on that day.
During our stay on Lord Howe, we had the opportunity to attend a fascinating presentation by naturalist Ian Hutton. As we listened intently, we discovered an interesting fact about this unique subtropical island - it is devoid of natural predators, earning it the new nickname, Wuss Island.
Without the threat of predators, the birds on Lord Howe have adapted their behavior, with many of them opting not to fly and instead finding all their food on the ground. Even the plants, which would typically have thorns on the mainland, lack them on Wuss Island as there is no need for defense against attackers.
This lack of fear extends to the wildlife, as we soon discovered when we encountered providence petrels. These friendly birds would come straight to our feet, seemingly posing for selfies without a care in the world. It was fascinating to observe the mutual trust that exists between the island's inhabitants and humans. Additionally, we learned that the fish at Ned's have become accustomed to the presence of humans, creating an extraordinary opportunity for underwater exploration.
Thankfully, one concern that plagued our minds before arriving was quickly dispelled - there are no venomous snakes on the island. Although we encountered more than a hundred spiders during our hikes, the knowledge that none of them were lethal provided a sense of relief. With each sighting of a walking bird or a harmless spider, my companion MQ and I playfully exclaimed, "WUSS ISLAND!" as we continued our adventure.
The breathtaking view from atop Kim's Lookout offers a glimpse into the beauty of Lord Howe Island. While it may seem like paradise, this subtropical gem is not without its challenges. One of the island's blights is the alarming population of 70,000 rats, potentially reaching as high as 120,000. Despite successfully eradicating goats, cats, and other invasive species to restore the balance of nature, the proposition to exterminate the rats has sparked a heated debate.According to Hutton, the resistance to rat extermination is more of a social argument rather than a scientific one. The local community harbors distrust towards mainland authorities dictating how things should be done on their island. It's an intriguing conflict, given the significant benefits that eliminating these rodents would bring to the ecosystem.Amidst these discussions, visitors to the island can immerse themselves in its culinary delights. Indulging in a meal of perfectly cooked medium rare steak and kingfish with pigfish as the entrée is a treat for the taste buds. The raw entree of kingfish and pigfish ranks as the best I have experienced on the island, delighting both locals and tourists alike.Experience the captivating landscapes, engage in thought-provoking conversations about conservation, and savor the exquisite flavors of Lord Howe Island.
Third Day
Foreboding shadows cover the sky, both symbolically and in actuality - primarily in the latter. Our bicycles take us to Environmental Tours, where an ocean-viewing boat ventures to the heart of the lagoon, visiting multiple reefs.
Hovering over enchanting blue, green, pink, and red corals, life beneath the sea comes into full view. I observe a pair of Galápagos sharks gliding under me while fishes of every imaginable size and hue swim near enough to touch. One fish has a unique, horned appearance, which as a result bestows a somewhat melancholic expression on its facade.
As the winds escalate and menacing clouds loom closer, we're assured that the boat will return safely before the conditions intensify. Unbeknownst to me at the time, this situation would become the preamble to the unexpected extension of my stay, even though I remain blissfully ignorant at this point.
The fourth day
MQ and I concur that the elongated weekend has been splendid. However, we yearn to return. The comforts of our own bed, the routine of work, and the convenience of phone connection beckon.
The morning hours find me at the museum, a modest establishment consisting of only three rooms. The fact that it stands as a testament to the philanthropy and drive of Clean Up Australia’s founder, Ian Kiernan, makes it worthwhile to devote a minimum of sixty minutes.
What seems like the opportune moment to return home is suddenly not so. An unexpected phone call informs us about the cancellation of our outbound flight due to windy conditions. This is not an irregular occurrence on this island, which is why travel insurance is strongly recommended - even for an internal journey within Australia. I cannot stress enough the importance of securing a travel insurance.
MQ and I shrug it off. It’s windy but the rain has stopped so we decide to brave Intermediate Hill, where a new lookout has been built with 360-degree views of the island. We walk the few kilometres to the hill and begin our ascent. The start of the track forks into two paths but I do not notice and steam ahead. We walk along some fairly steep tracks, looking down over cliffs to the clear ocean below. We were told it would take about an hour to get to the lookout and back and, after 45 minutes of trekking I begin to get slightly concerned. Then I hear the squarking. It’s like a magpie, but slightly more hysterical. Or angrier. MQ and I laugh it off and continue on.
The cacophony grows louder, as if the sound is hurtling right towards us. Our heads snap around, and there in front of us is a squawking avian creature with a long brown beak. In a panic, I shout and instinctively drop to the ground, while MQ frantically searches for something to deter the bird.
The bird pivots and zooms toward us once again, defying our attempts to evade it. "We were meant to be on Wuss Island!" I exclaim, stumbling and shielding my head, flailing my arms in an attempt to ward off the persistent assailant. To my utter embarrassment, the next moment compels me to dive to the ground, dragging MQ over me for protection, constituting one of my most ungraceful moments ever.
By this point, I have strayed from the trail and find myself precariously close to the precipice of a cliff. While the prospect may sound dramatic, there is thankfully ample vegetation below to soften my descent, rendering a watery demise improbable. Keeping my screams unabated, MQ valiantly urges me forward along the path, and with sheer determination, we manage to elude the wrath of the relentless brown bird.
As I finished my walk on the subtropical island, I suddenly noticed a sign that I had overlooked before. To my disappointment, the track was closed due to a perceived "danger."
Once my companion and I descended from the mountain, fatigue overcame us, preventing us from walking back. In a rare instance, I found myself hitchhiking for the first time in my life. Fortunately, a friendly man in his ute stopped to pick us up, revealing himself as a sixth-generation resident of the island whose job was to milk the cows.
Intrigued by the ongoing debate about rats on the island, I seized the opportunity to ask our driver for his perspective. In a dismissive tone, he declared, "It's all nonsense. They claim the rats are harming the wildlife, but I've witnessed more birds and wildlife here than ever before during my childhood. There's talk of poisoning them, but what good would the poison do?"
Despite the closure and the challenges faced, my time stranded on Lord Howe Island granted me unexpected encounters and insights into the ongoing ecological discussions that shape the unique island community.
Day five
This day is notable for being the first time I connect to internet properly on my phone and am able to receive iMessages. It’s been 96 hours! I brace myself for the flood, estimating 56 will come through. Seven arrive. Four are from my father.
I ring my editor again to tell her I am still stranded. I am missing the internet and conversations with people who aren’t MQ so much that I keep her on the phone as long as possible. Like most people, she shows little sympathy for my plight, laughing about how horrible it must be for me to be trapped on the island. Despite her understanding and extremely reasonable nature I still have low-level anxiety about the whole thing. I hate not having control over where and when I’m going.
Day six
As another day dawns on the subtropical island, the familiar disappointment of yet another canceled flight settles in. Determined not to let our spirits waver, my companion MQ and I hop onto our bicycles and pedal fervently towards the tranquil Old Settlement beach, our gateway to an adventure towards the majestic Mount Eliza. With each revolution of the wheels, we find solace in our shared predicament, devising imaginative scenarios of survival and even forming a pact - should either one of us manage to secure a flight out, they shall be free to depart without reproach while the other finds solace in befriending a volleyball.
Immersed in this lush paradise, our minds conjure endless possibilities and unforeseen challenges that come with being marooned on this remote island. The vibrant beauty of Lord Howe becomes our canvas, as we navigate through dense forests, discover unknown paths, and forge a bond that only adversity can engender.
Now, as the days stretch into a week, we find ourselves embracing the serenity of this island sanctuary. We embrace the uncertainty, growing resilient and forging deeper connections not only between ourselves, but also with the captivating nature that surrounds us. Lord Howe Island becomes more than just a backdrop; it evolves into an introspective journey of self-discovery and survival against the odds.
Exploring Lord Howe Island’s Old Settlement beach is a thrilling adventure. As I make my way up the mountain, the path becomes steeper and narrower, and with each step, I am filled with anticipation.
I push through the dense bush until I reach a rocky outcrop. When I turn around, I am completely mesmerized by the breathtaking view. From this vantage point, I can see the rugged mountains, the vast expanse of the ocean, and down below, a hidden beach that feels like a secret known only to locals, accessible only after a challenging climb and some bush bashing.
The summit is tantalizingly close, but this mesmerizing view holds me captive. I take a seat and soak in the magnificent scenery. While I contemplate requesting my sandwich, a sudden shriek escapes my lips, and I almost lose my balance as a mischievous rat scurries towards me in curiosity. Startled, I quickly make my way back down from the mountain.
The beauty and untamed nature of Lord Howe Island continue to amaze me. To witness such incredible sights and encounter unexpected wildlife truly adds an extra layer of excitement to my journey.
The subtropical island I found myself stranded on had a rather peculiar landscape. Despite the lush rainforest-like appearance, there was a noticeable absence of undergrowth. Typically, in a rainforest, seeds fall from trees, giving rise to new plants and creating a vibrant, leafy undergrowth. However, on this island, the local rat population was devouring all the seeds, resulting in a barren forest with only a few tall ferns remaining. It was truly disheartening to realize the impact of this ecological disturbance.
During my stay on the island, I had the pleasure of dining at Pandanus, a restaurant that offered outstanding value for money. Although I had initially considered trying the bowls club, it had unfortunately been fully booked when we inquired at 6 pm on that night.
At Pandanus, a refreshing beer could be enjoyed for just $6, and the kitchen delighted patrons with delectable Asian fusion cuisine. From succulent king prawns to grilled yakitori chicken and moreish kingfish, every dish was artfully prepared, bursting with flavors. What impressed me most was the chef's ability to strike a perfect balance, showcasing their culinary prowess without overcomplicating the dishes.
Pan-seared local kingfish with slow-roasted roma tomatoes, baby beetroots and semi-dried tomato and macadamia pesto garden herbs, caper and dill butter at Arajilla Lodge.
The island’s restaurants all serve fish that is caught off the island, mostly on that day. My advice: order the kingfish wherever you go, wherever you are. It is so good it will be ruined for you once back on the mainland (which dear reader, I did eventually get back to).
Day seven - A Serendipitous Departure
As the morning dawns, the island welcomes me with its captivating beauty. The sky is a mesmerizing shade of blue, and a gentle breeze caresses my skin. It seems that the island is bidding me farewell on this perfect day, as if acknowledging the wish I made the previous night, which coincidentally aligns with a once-in-four-years occurrence.
After an extraordinary 168 hours unraveling the secrets of Lord Howe, the time has come for us to reluctantly bid adieu and embark on our flight back to Sydney. As I bask in the glory of this precious subtropical paradise, memories of our encounters with vibrant marine life and the untouched rainforest flood my mind.
I fondly recall snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters, where my eyes were met with a kaleidoscope of colors from the diverse coral formations. Exploring the island's lush greenery, I found solace in the tranquil whispers of nature, serenaded by the harmonious songs of birds hidden amongst the trees.
As I prepare to leave, a sense of gratitude fills my heart for the precious moments I have experienced on this remarkable island. Though I may be departing physically, a piece of Lord Howe will forever remain etched in my soul.
As I board the plane with mixed emotions, I can't help but marvel at the remarkable journey I have embarked upon. Reflecting upon my time spent on this subtropical haven, I am left with a newfound appreciation for the wonders of nature and a longing to return someday.
As the aircraft soars into the sky, I steal one last glance at the enchanting island of Lord Howe, knowing that I will carry its beauty and tranquility with me wherever I go. Farewell, dear island; until we meet again.
And now my hard-won tips for holidaying on Lord Howe:
I feel practically a local, and thus able to pass along what I learned:
Breakfast at the Anchorage restaurant is delicious but alternatively you can buy bread made fresh on the premises and eat each morning in your room. The co-op just across the road sells homemade peanut butter in small portions so you don’t have to buy an entire jar for three days of toast. The co-op also sells small cups of oil for 85 cents if you choose to cook at your accommodation.
The local convenience store located on the bustling main street offers a wide range of essentials to cater to your needs. However, it's important to be mindful of your spending, as prices can add up quickly. I found myself unintentionally splurging $70 on a couple of cheeses, a bottle of red wine, and a six-pack of beer on a particularly tiring day when I failed to consider the prices beforehand.
If you're looking for greater variety, Joy's Shop just a few streets away has an extensive selection and is likely to have everything you require. Despite being on an island, the prices at Joy's Shop are reasonable. In fact, we managed to purchase enough steak for the two of us to enjoy a delightful evening at our bungalow for just $14.
While I personally didn't have the chance to visit the bottle shop, it's worth noting that there is one available on the island. In terms of accessing cash, you'll find several locations where you can withdraw money, and most establishments readily accept card payments. However, it's still advisable to carry some cash with you during your stay, ideally at least $120, to ensure you're prepared for any situation.
When visiting Lord Howe, it's important to keep your loved ones informed about your stay and provide them with your accommodation address and contact number. Although there is Wi-Fi available at different locations on the island, there is no phone reception.
This subtropical island is not only a great destination for adults but also offers a variety of activities that cater to children. From bike rides to scenic hikes, there's something for everyone. Additionally, the beaches are surrounded by lagoons, ensuring a safe environment without worrying about rips or sharks. However, if you're like me and tend to be cautious, the thought of sharks might still creep into your mind. Interestingly, this island welcomes visitors of all ages, and during my visit at the age of 27, I encountered people of various generations enjoying hikes and dining experiences.
While getting stranded on the island is not a common occurrence, it's always wise to check the weather patterns during your planned visit to avoid any unexpected situations. However, it's safe to say that being temporarily marooned on this picturesque island would be a legitimate excuse for not showing up at work.