Colombia Travelogue: 4 weeks of adventure in South America

Colombia Travelogue - 4 weeks across South America's paradise

Colombia is still considered an undiscovered paradise in South America. However, it is no longer an insider tip. Time and again, I hear from friends that Colombia is on the agenda as a travel destination this year. Quite rightly.

For many years, I had wanted to travel Colombia with a backpack. It finally worked out, over the turn of the year for four whole weeks. The fact that January is supposed to be the best season for Colombia is pure coincidence.

Here you can find my personal travel report for 28 days in Colombia. Including all information about the places, our route, distances, activities and where we stayed:

Why travel to Colombia?

When you think of Colombia, you probably think of the cocaine mafia and guerrillas, and now you're wondering if it's safe to travel there? It is. Colombia is now considered one of the safest countries in Latin America and even safer than Mexico. Of course, you should avoid certain areas, such as the poorer neighbourhoods of Bogotá, as we learn as soon as we arrive.

With Colombia, I was pretty sure I was going to love the country before I even stepped on the plane. It's such a premonition, after many friends had already raved to me about the diverse country and their travels there.

Colombia is considered one of the most scenically diverse countries in Latin America: dreamlike Caribbean beaches (Palomino), rugged Pacific coasts, numerous national parks and, of course, the Andes and the Amazon. In addition, you will find beautiful colonial cities (Cartagena) as well as pulsating metropolises or remote villages where time seems to have stood still.

As a coffee lover, I can't miss the coffee region, where some of the best coffee beans in the world are grown.

What will we discover of it? We have no idea, because the country is three times the size of Germany and our time is limited to 28 days.

Our route for 28 days in Colombia

Before our trip, we only thought about a rough route and only booked the first three nights in Bogotá.

• Bogotá with Zipaquirá Salt Cathedral (half day)

• Tatacoa desert

• San Agustín

• Popayan

• Cali

• Quimbaya (coffee finca)

• Filandia

• Salento and Valle de Cocora

Medellín with Guatapé (day trip)

Cartagena

Santa Marta (if you have time: Ciudad Perdida)

Palomino

Tayrona National Park (overnight stay in Buritaca)

• Bogotá

Note: We had planned for the 4-day hike to the Ciudad Perdida unfortunately no time. Chris did this trek and wrote an article about it: My trek to the lost city in the jungles of Colombia..

See the costs of the Colombia trip here

Bogotá

Day 1 - Arrival in Bogotá

After a 14-hour journey, we land at Bogotá International Airport. Under a thick blanket of clouds, we can only guess at the dimensions of the city of 9 million. Thanks to our arrival on 31 December, the streets are empty. Therefore, less than 20 minutes later we arrive at our accommodation, the Hotel Muisca in the old town. Hotel Muisca in the old town quarter La Candelariawith a great view of the city below us.

I would not have thought it possible for a capital city to be dead on 31 December. In Bogotá, this is exactly the case. All the cafés and restaurants are closed. So we have to make do with a snack in our accommodation (the food tastes good). We sleep through New Year's Eve thanks to jet lag.

Accommodation in Bogotá in La Candelaria: Hotel Muisca

The accommodation is almost at the top of the hill in the old town of La Candelaria. It is really cosy and the view of Bogotá is not the worst.

Cost for 3 nights in a double room with breakfast, 2 persons: 144 euros.

Book accommodation at booking.com

Day 2 - Exploring Bogotá by bike

The next day we are well rested for a bike tour with Bogota Bike Tours. We explore the city for almost 4 hours and get into neighbourhoods that you should normally avoid as a tourist.

We pass the most important sights such as Plaza Bolivar, Museo de Oro Museo Botero, Bullring, Parque Nacional, Street Art outside La Candelaria, University and the Parque de Renacimiento. As well as the red light district. Here it gets adventurous for a moment, dirty and there are bags of rubbish torn open everywhere. Our guide advises me to put the camera away.

On the Bogota on Bike Tour, we pass graffiti and street art that we would otherwise probably have missed because it was too dangerous.

I liked Bogotá from the first minute and even more after the bike tour.

At the end of the tour, there is another nasty climb to the La Candelaria district. Here the lack of acclimatisation (we are almost 2,700m up) becomes noticeable. But all the other participants suffer with us.

In the evening we finally find restaurants that are open and fall into another deep sleep after a Colombian meal.

Bogotá tips and addresses:

Bogotá Bike Tour: Classy and informative bike tour through Bogotá that also takes you to corners you wouldn't otherwise visit.

La Puerta de la Cathedral: Actually, the restaurant next to it was recommended to us. But due to a holiday, almost everything was closed and we didn't have much choice. Apart from us, only Colombians were eating here, which speaks for itself. There is typical Colombian food - watch out for large portions!

Day 3 - Zipaquirá Salt Cathedral and the best view in Bogotá from Monserrate

After breakfast, a driver will take us to the Salt Cathedral in Zipaquirá (Catedral de Sal). The cathedral is one of three underground cathedrals in the world that was created by miners completely by hand from the salt of the salt mine in Zipaquirá. It is considered one of the biggest attractions for tourists and is visited by over 13 million visitors every year.

The guided tour lasts about an hour. Afterwards, we can move around freely in the 180 m deep cathedral for as long as we want. We are particularly impressed by the depth and the light effects of the chambers, which depict the Way of the Cross of Jesus. At the end of the tour, we are directed into a kind of underground shopping centre. The only strange thing during the visit to this place.

Afterwards, we briefly explore the historical centre of Zipaquirá, which presents itself in Spanish style with a square square and a colonial church. Like in an old western.

As there is hardly any traffic, we are taken directly to the foot of Bogotá's local mountain, Monserrate, which is over 3100 metres high. After a short wait, the teleferico (cable car) takes us quickly up the mountain. Once at the top, we really become aware of the scale and size of the city. Wow!

After a short break at the hotel, we go in search of a restaurant. In passing, we like La Bruja (The Witch) - a very good choice and top recommendation for Bogotá. The food is delicious and the interior very cosy.

Tatacoa Desert

Day 4 - Drive from Bogotá to the Tatacoa Desert (Desierto de la Tatacoa)

After breakfast, a driver ordered the day before will take us to the bus station. From here we take a comfortable bus to Neiva. The journey takes almost seven hours. From here it is another 1.5 hours by collectivo to the accommodation Noches de Saturno in the Tatacoa desert. The drive south takes us through picturesque valleys with mountains shrouded in mist at the ends. The further south we go, the warmer and sunnier it gets. It is dreamlike.

Our accommodation is in the desert, run by small farmers and is very simple but authentic. When we finally arrive, we are disillusioned: there is no more food, the kitchen is closed. So we grab our beer, camera and tripod and walk a little way towards the entrance to the desert to enjoy the starry sky - which is really impressive - on this clear night. I have rarely seen so many stars shining in the sky. Eventually we crawl into bed.

Accommodation in the Tatacoa Desert: Noche de Saturno.

Unfortunately only bookable by e-mail (best in Spanish) or just call. Very simple accommodation, which is quite sufficient for one night. Good food and tours into the desert are offered directly from here. The observatory is also not far away (email: moisestatacoa@yahoo.es).

Cost for two nights with breakfast for 2 persons: COP$ 120,000 (approx. 34 euros).

Day 5 - Hike in the Tatacoa Desert and drive to San Agustín

In the morning we visit the grey and red desert with guides who give us a guided tour on their motorbike. After a leisurely pace as usual, the tour starts sometime around half past eight. The day before, there was talk of a start around 7 am. Slowly we get used to the cosiness of the Colombians.

We are joined by a Colombian couple who are enjoying the peace of Colombia and exploring their own country. We not only learn a lot about nature, but also about Colombia's culture. The deserts are at least as impressive as last night's starry sky. We do not regret having made the long journey. The Tatacoa Desert should be on the itinerary of every traveller to Colombia.

Onward journey to San Agustín

At around 1 pm we want to continue on to Neiva, from where we take the Collectivo to San Augustín. Of course, it is 2 pm, because the driver "wants to eat something first". Afterwards he would drive us directly to Neiva - without stops. Of course he doesn't stick to this and stops at hostals until the car and the flatbed are full.

Nevertheless, he accelerates and 1.5 h later we are in Neiva at the bus terminal. We buy our tickets to San Agustin and almost on time at 16:14 we set off. The journey takes about five hours. It is cold and damp when we get into a taxi in San Agustín, which takes us up the mountain to our accommodation, Finca el Maco. Tired and frozen through, we fall into bed. We have arrived in the Andes.

Accommodation in San Agustín: Finca el Maco. Great eco-lodge with small cosy huts, great food and friendly staff. Tours and transfers can be organised very well here.

Cost for 2 nights in a double room with breakfast: 96 euros for 2 people.

Our hut with hammock in the Finca El Maco in San Agustin San Agustín

Day 6 - Jeep tour around San Agustín

In San Agustín you will find more than 500 stone sculptures scattered around the area. Otherwise, very little is known about the peoples and the significance of the sculptures. Nevertheless, the finds are among the most important on the South American continent. Today we will explore some of these sites on a jeep tour.

We will make stops at the Estrecho de la Magdalena. At this point, the Rio Magdalena is at its narrowest with only 2.5 metres. We also don't miss the archaeological sites Alto de los Ídolos (best-preserved burial grounds and a 7-metre-high statue) and Alto de las Piedras, as well as the museum for even more background knowledge. The figures were once free-standing and colourfully painted. In the meantime, the paint has come off and the sculptures are all fenced in, as they have been smeared by tourists.

We also make a photo stop at the spectacular Salto de Bordones waterfalls.

The tour lasts all day and in the evening we are happy to have seen a great landscape with great company from a family from Bogotá and a funny one. This stop on our trip also impresses us a lot and we are looking forward to visiting the archaeological park tomorrow before heading to Popayan by bus.

Day 7 - San Agustín Archaeological Park and drive to Popayan

Today the weather does not like us at all. It is raining cats and dogs. Nevertheless, we walk to the archaeological park "Parque Arqueológico de San Agustín", located 2 km after the village. This archaeological site covers an area of 78 ha and is one of the most important and impressive in South America. Unfortunately, it is still little explored. The culture of that time left behind around 150 stone sculptures and monumental tombs here. There is also a museum with valuable background information (the panels here are also in English).

After the museum, we head to the Bosque de las Estatuas (Forest of Statues) and then the arduous walk up to the Alta de Lavapatas, where the high plateau offers a view of the mountains around us.

Unfortunately, the sculptures are now fenced off, as many a visitor has smeared the sculptures with paint. After about 3.5 hours in the park, we make our way back. We quickly take a shower, pack and then we are off to Popayan.

Carnaval celebrations and a bumpy ride to Popayan

The road from San Agustín to Popayan is a tough one. The driver heats up for almost four hours on a gravel road covered with potholes through the serpentines of the mountains. No wonder he handed out spit bags to the Colombian passengers at the beginning, and they made extensive use of them not long after the start. No joke, this goes on for the entire journey (including the breaks).

Shortly after departure, we pass the small town of Isnos, where we had lunch the day before. Today the "Carnaval de Blancos y Negros" (Carnival of Blacks and Whites) is raging here. On 5 January they celebrate the Day of the Blacks (they rub themselves with fat) and one day later - today - they celebrate the Day of the Whites.

Originally, people painted their faces with flour. Here, people throw water bombs and flour at each other, and everyone is armed with foam guns. It is almost impossible to get through. Our window panes quickly turn opaque white. Fortunately, I stay dry.

Again and again we pass checkpoints with military, because not so long ago the Farc was still in control here. At some point, a huge rainbow appears in the hilly landscape. I have never seen such a large and colourful rainbow. Unfortunately, the driver didn't stop, so the picture didn't turn out so well:

The drive takes about four hours. At the end we are stuck in a traffic jam, because in Popayan the "La fiesta de Reyes" and also the carnival are in full swing. Celebrating Colombians smeared with flour and foam everywhere. After finally arriving at our accommodation, we get the tip that we should go to Parque Caldas, the central main square, in the evening. There are lots of food stalls set up for the Fiesta de Reyes, where we can try out all the delicacies. There is also a big stage with live music. Of course we like it!

There are champús (non-alcoholic drink made from corn and fruit), empanadas, salpicón and many other Colombian specialities. We taste our way through the night!

Accommodation tip for Popayan: The Hostel Caracol is okay for one night, but then make sure you don't have one of the front rooms near the "through traffic". Including free bike rental, which we didn't use.

Popayan

Day 8 - We explore the white city and drive to Cali

Popayan is also called "White City" (La ciudad blanca), as the old town was built and restored completely in white. With the sun finally shining again, we explore the old town on foot and first climb the hill "El Morro de Tulcá" with its equestrian monument to catch a view from above.

Then we stroll more or less haphazardly through the old town to look at the beautiful houses and churches. In between we eat arepas with cheese and drink a freshly squeezed juice. Afterwards, we stroll past the food stalls at Parque Caldas again and watch the band that is currently on stage.

Half a day is enough for Popayan. Somehow I miss the connection to the city. Maybe it's just because I have aching limbs and just want to go to bed.

Accommodation tip for Popayan: The Hostel Caracol is okay for one night, but make sure you don't have one of the front rooms near the "through traffic". Including free bike rental, which we did not use.

Costs for 1 night without breakfast, 2 persons: 75.000 COP$ (ca. 21 €); breakfast for 2 persons: 13.000 COP$ (ca. 3,60 €)

Off to Cali

For the afternoon we have organised a driver to take us to Cali via the Panamericana.

Cali was not originally on our list of places we would like to visit. But the direct bus ride to the coffee region was too long for us and I was sick anyway.

So we booked ourselves into a huge room (or rather suite) at the Hotel Colina de San Antonio for two nights. The hotel is new and had advertised a 50% discount. So we had to take it. It's an old residence that has been completely renovated and offered us a gigantic view of the city.

We could smell one of the best restaurants right next door when we entered the room. From lunch time onwards, we had the most delicious smell of chicken in our nostrils. The view of the restaurant's large terrace included. Of course we had lunch here. The food, by the way, was as delicious as it smelled. No matter what we ordered. On the first evening, I stayed in bed while the others had a look at the restaurant "El Zaguan de San Antonio".

Accommodation in Cali: Hotel Colina de San Antonio. Great accommodation with large rooms and very helpful staff. Even if some things take longer, a great place to stay.

Cost for 2 nights in a 3-bed room with breakfast: 198,000 per person (56 euros per night).

Book accommodation at booking.com

Dining: El Zaguan de San Antonio. Who knew that one of the locals' best and most popular eateries was hidden right next to our accommodation? Even more so, that from 11am onwards the delicious smell would drift into our room? Great Colombian food!

Day 9 - We explore the old town of Cali

Many talk about Cali as a juggernaut, we found Cali very green in some places. After a hearty breakfast we wanted to go: Street Art Tour Muli. But the meeting point we had been told did not exist, and unfortunately, thanks to the weekend, none of the organisations answered the phone. So we decided to explore the old quarter of San Antonio on our own.

At least as far as we could. Nowhere else was my attention drawn so often to the fact that I should pack my camera and be careful. Well, if I hadn't lost my mobile phone in Bogotá, I could have easily taken photos with it. Unfortunately, that's not the case (any more). So I was really happy when I could "hide" the camera in my backpack again.

Finally, I had a delicious lunch in one of the many small restaurants in the district (vegetarian " El Buen Alimento"). In the evening, we went with two Colombian girls to our favourite restaurant "El Zaguan de San Antonio". They gave us tips again for the Zona Cafetera, where they also live.

Food: El Buen Alimento. Delicious juices and especially vegetarian and vegan food.

Zona Cafetera (Quimbaya, Filandia, Salento)

Day 10: Zona Cafetera - Coffee Finca Quimbaya

After breakfast, a taxi takes us to the bus terminal together with the Colombian girls. The bus ride from Cali takes us to Cartago in 2.5 hours. There we change to a taxi to Alcalá (5 including luggage!), which takes us to the Colombian girls' home in only 20 minutes. There, a friend of the girls is already waiting with his taxi to take us to Quimbaya to the coffee finca Villa Nora. Again, the journey takes only 15 minutes.

Thanks to the girls, we saved a lot of time. Lonely Planet and the like would have taken us via Pereira or Armenia.

We immediately felt at home on the finca. It is located outside the small village of Quimbaya, surrounded by palm trees and coffee plants. Idyllic peace and quiet, and finally we can move around freely again without thinking that someone might come and steal our camera. We explore the immediate surroundings of the finca on foot. Apart from other plantations and fincas, there is not much to see. In the evening, we are served delicious food by the cook before I fall into an ancient and very comfortable bed.

Accommodation in the Zona Cafetera: Finca Villa Nora. Great and beautifully situated café finca owned by Nora and Roberto. Roberto is happy to take time for a private tour of the coffee plantations and through his orchard. Spanish required.

Cost for 2 nights in a double room with breakfast, snack on arrival and dinner (with wine): 247,40 €

View on Tripadvisor | Book via website

Villa Nora - the beautiful coffee finca of Roberto and Nora in Quimbaya Time seems to have stood still here - very cosy bed!

Day 11 - Tour of the finca and drive to Filandia, probably the most beautiful place in the area

After a breakfast of homemade bread and fresh fruit from the farm's own garden, we get a private tour of his coffee fields from owner Roberto. He explains the origin of coffee and why coffee in Colombia is of such high quality.

Afterwards we get a tour through Roberto's orchard. He grows 30 types of fruit here himself. Of course, we are allowed to taste everything that is ripe at the moment. Whether grapefruit, cacao, mango, agaza, guava, carambola (star fruit), pomelo and countless more. For the skin, Roberto cut and peeled a piece of aloe for us.

The tour went longer than expected and ended after 2.5 hours with a delicious 8-year-old Ron de Caldas. If we hadn't had the plan to go to Filandia, Roberto would certainly have had a lot more to tell us.

Whether star fruit, cocoa, grapefruit, tangerines, lulo or grapefruit. You can get it all here. My paradise!

Filandia - my little highlight of the Zona Cafetera

Around 1 pm our driver arrives and takes us through the beautiful landscape to Filandia. It is cloudy. Nevertheless, we want to climb the lookout tower to see the region from above. We can't see far, but we can see Filandia from above. From the tower it is only a few minutes' walk to the village.

The Mirador in Filandia - normally you have a magnificent view here. The weather let us down here - as so often in the first two weeks.

Filandia itself is a small sleepy but beautiful village. Let's see how long the place will remain so cosy, because here the old houses are painted in different colours in the paisa tradition. Just more beautiful than elsewhere.

We take the local bus back for less than one euro.

On our return, Roberto waits to invite us for aguardiente before taking us to the small town of Quimbaya. Here we have a dinner date with the two Colombian girls we met in Cali. Without them, we wouldn't have got one or two tips for the region. The restaurant "Guanapalo" is probably the only one in town and offers typical Colombian cuisine.

Afterwards we have a coffee with an ice cream in one of the ice cream parlours on the village square. It's time to say goodbye, with the promise to stay in touch.

Tips for Filandia:

• Eco Paque Mirador Colina Iluminada: entrance fee 8,000 COP.

• Food: Helena Adentr

• Café: Don Fernando Tienda y Café, Calle 7 No. 5-42 Plaza Principa (directly at Parque de Bolivar)

• Bus from Filandia to Quimbaya: 2600 COP (approx. 85 cents)

Day 12 - Drive to Salento and hike in the Valle de Cocora

We wake up to the realisation that it is raining. Like all the days before, the weather is far too bad for this time of year. It is cold, it is raining and there is no end in sight. I'm still not completely healthy. Fine. Nevertheless, we drive to Salento around 8 am. We quickly take our luggage to the next accommodation and head straight to the village square in Salento. This is where the famous Willys are supposed to leave. Old jeeps with platforms to sit on. These are the only means of transport to the famous Valle de Cocora with its wax palms.

Unfortunately, no jeeps seem to be waiting for us today. As is so often the case, the information we get varies. A town employee chats to us and asks what we are looking for. "Well, the Willys" - our answer. Good thing he knows that they are now leaving two blocks away. So we hurry, because the sky opens up and the sun shows itself. We want to take advantage of the good weather for a walk.

Salento - "main street", where most of the (souvenir) shops are located. Mainly local tourists were on the road here

Hardly there is a willy full. Eight people have to find each other for the car to start. So we get to the Valle de Cocora quite quickly in 20 minutes. Equipped with a drawing and a rough description of the route, we set off on the hike which, according to the flyer, takes 5-6 hours. Right at the beginning, the ascending path is lined with the wax palms that make the valley so famous. Shrouded in clouds, the whole area looks mystical and mysterious.

The climb is tough, as I am still not in full health. The higher we get, the more it gets cloudy again and the sun disappears. At the highest point, visibility is only a few metres and it is raining. At first lightly, then more heavily.

Note the people at the bottom right - size comparison!

On the descent, therefore, the mud factor comes more and more into play. We slip and slide through the deep mud. I feel like I was gorilla trekking in Uganda. Only back then I had good trekking shoes with me. Now only trainers without tread. I manage the descent anyway, without slipping once. Climbing over rocks, suspension bridges and through small waterfalls brings us back to the exit. Soaking wet and our shoes completely covered in mud, we board a Willy to get back to Salento.

On arrival, the gloomy sky clears briefly and the sun shines on the way back to the accommodation. A hot shower later, we go straight to dinner before falling into bed, completely exhausted.

Tips for Salento and Valle de Cocora:

• Accommodation in Salento: Coffee Tree Boutique Hostel. Large spacious rooms with a great view. The hostel is relatively new and is on the outskirts of Salento (although I have to say that Salento is not big). The staff speak English, which is not a given in Colombia, and give tips for the hike to Valle de Cocora. Cost for 2 nights in a 3-bed room with breakfast (price for 2 people): COP$148,000 | Book accommodation at booking.com

• Find out where the Willys depart from, in our case the departure point suddenly changed. Total cost (round trip 2 persons): 11400 COP.

• Hike: Be sure to take rain gear with you. It rains often and frequently. Enough water and snacks for on the way. Trekking shoes are good, I walked the whole thing with Nike Free trainers - and slipped less than others with hiking boots.

Medellín

Day 13 - Drive from Salento to Medellín

Breakfast is very healthy with fruit, muesli and yoghurt. Finally, no eggs in any form. Then we set off on foot to buy our reserved bus tickets. The minivan to Medellín goes via Pereira and is full to the last seat. Those arriving later have to take the bus 2 hours later. We are therefore glad that we had reserved tickets for the 10 am bus the day before.

We drive about an hour to Pereira. Then there is a short break - but nobody gets on or off. We all have the same destination: Medellín, the 2nd largest in Colombia. We wind our way through the mountainous roads, a landscape that is worth looking at, as always. A window seat is an advantage. Again and again, the traffic comes to a standstill, as there are road works everywhere on the busy single-lane road. Nevertheless, we are lucky and arrive at the bus station in Medellín almost before 4.45 pm.

In Medellín we are also unlucky with the weather: It starts to rain as we wait for our driver to take us to our accommodation in El Poblado. The evening rush hour traffic prevents us from moving forward quickly.

After arriving and settling in, we explore the neighbourhood and go out for dinner. Actually, we wanted to join the Free Walking Tour the next day. As it is the weekend afterwards, we change our plans and decide to go to Guatapé and Piedra del Penol first to avoid the local weekenders there.

Day 14 - Day trip from Medellin to Guatapé

To escape the normal traffic chaos from Medellín, we leave before 7am. The driver of our Airbnb rental picks us up so we can see more in a short time, be more flexible and make photo stops as we wish. It's more expensive than taking the public buses, but it saves us some time.

It is raining and the sky over Medellín is cloudy. Visibility is only a few metres. I fear the worst, because the climb up to the meteorite stone La Piedra only really makes sense if you can see something. Shortly before we arrive, after a 2.5 hour drive, the miracle happens: the sky opens up and the sun appears.

From a distance, you can see the well-known rock La Piedra del Penol - I'm going up here!

So we walk up the 659 steps to the top in less than 20 minutes, exhilarated (ok not quite so easy then). Another 100 steps take us up a little further in the observation tower on top.

The steps are numbered, so it's up to you to decide whether you want to climb or descend.

The view of the surroundings is fantastic. The sign at the entrance claims it is the best view in the world.

It's quicker to go downstairs. We have a coffee there and enjoy the view of the lake landscape surrounded by green hills.

Our driver is already waiting to take us to the colourful town of Guatapé. Here we stroll through the pretty alleys and marvel at the colourful frescoes painted on the bases of the houses. Some find it kitschy - we like it.

On the shore of the lake, we let ourselves be persuaded to take a "La Lancha" tour by boat across the reservoir. It takes 1.5 - 2 hours and passes the luxury villas of many a celebrity or former drug lord. Isla de la Fantasia, where I would like to spend the night, the villa of football star James Rodriguez and Pablo Escobar's former smallest villa "La Manuela", which was destroyed by his opponents "Los Pepes".

This is where I would like to spend the night: Isla de la Fantasia in Guatapé!

For a few dollars you can also visit the villa on a short tour. We let ourselves be persuaded and marvel at the beautiful view from the bedroom. We also wonder about the holes in the double wall. Our guide explains to us that after the destruction, people immediately started looking in the walls for hidden money, weapons and drugs. That makes sense to us.

"La Manuela" in Guatapé was one of Pablo Escobar's smallest villas. It is really beautifully situated and can be visited. View from the terrace of the villa of the pool and the lake landscape

The original village of Guatapé was flooded when a reservoir was built. Only a cross on top of the old church reminds us of this. The only house still standing is a hospital on the edge of the reservoir.

The old village of Guatapé was flooded to build a reservoir. The cross on top of the church is a reminder of this.

We then make our way back to Medellín, this time taking only 2 hours. The view of Medellin is now clearer and we have a wonderful view of Medellin:

Grandiose views of Medellin which seems much bigger than Bogotá to me. Medellín

Day 15: Medellin - Walking Tour & Santo Domingo

Everyone recommends the Real Walking Tour for Medellín, so I take one too. You walk through El Centro - the quarter in the centre of Medellín that you might otherwise avoid. But guide Caro, a native Medellinense (as the people of Medellín are called) takes away our fear. Thanks to her, we have a really great tour and see important places and sights of the city.

Afterwards, we set off by metro and cable car. Off to one of the once most dangerous neighbourhoods in the world: Comuna 1 or Santo Domingo.

The modern metro is really great. Even better are the cable cars that take you to the city's high poverty neighbourhoods. There are now even four of them. The view from the ski gondolas is magnificent! Anyone who has seen Narcos knows what it looks like in one of these neighbourhoods.

Gigantic views from the cable car up to Santo Domingo - an absolute "must do" in Medellin!

One house is lined up next to or on top of another. It is hard to see a beginning or an end. The streets are narrow and wind through the comuna in hairpin bends. Santo Domingo consists of red brick houses. The hustle and bustle on the streets is incredible and somehow we feel out of place. Insecure would be the wrong expression. We drink a fresh juice, which the waiter sells us at an unbelievably high price (far too expensive, the deal of a lifetime?) and we drive back down into the cauldron of Medellín.

I see a sea of houses while waiting for the cable car in Comuna 1 - Santo Domingo.

Day 16 - Medellin Comuna 13

After breakfast in our airbnb flat and copious coffee consumption, we set off for another of the city's formerly most dangerous neighbourhoods: Comuna 13. This neighbourhood is one of the city's showcase projects when it comes to modernisation.

Here, it is not a cable car but the supposedly longest escalator in the world that leads up to the neighbourhood. This is also an enrichment for the residents here, as most of them do not own a motorbike or a car. The use of the escalator is, of course, completely free.

The neighbourhood immediately seems much friendlier than Santo Domingo. Everywhere we find colourful graffiti and brightly painted houses. The inhabitants seem more open and happy about our visit. One of them even closes his door and drives his moped away so that I can take a photo of the graffiti, which had been invisible until then.

We spend the rest of the day planning the rest of the trip and in the evening I meet a friend who will be spending the next few weeks in Medellín.

Cartagena

Day 17 - Flight to Cartagena in the Caribbean heat

Early in the morning, a driver takes us together with 2 flatmates to the airport outside the city. The departure was chosen quite sportily by him, so that we can go directly to the baggage drop-off and then almost directly board the plane. Since we fly with Avianca, the plane takes off and lands very punctually in Cartagena. Finally, the Caribbean heat hits me as soon as I leave the plane! Only hot temperatures from now on, please.

After a short ride with Uber and the search for the hotel in the middle of the old town, we arrive. We stay in an old colonial building in the middle of it for two nights. It really doesn't get any more central than this. The room resembles a shoebox, but the prices were outrageously high that we were not willing to book a higher category.

We plunged straight into the hustle and bustle of the old town and let ourselves drift. Anything else would be pointless. The buildings are too beautiful, there is too much to see. In the evening we fall happily into bed.

Accommodation in Cartagena: Casa De La Tabladasituated in the middle of the old town. Tip: Don't choose the cheapest category. Our room was mini and was right next to the kitchen and breakfast area. We were always up very early as the cook had to be active.

Food tips: La Mulata (best limonada de coco. Always full, book or come early), La Cevicheria (ceviche, ceviche and more ceviche, plus a limonada de coco), Patio Casa Leon (great patio in the shade, good ceviche and fish dishes). In Cartagena there are arepas stands everywhere. Be sure to try them.

Day 18 - Cartagena's old town

At lunchtime we signed up for a walking tour in Getsemani, which we skip not only thanks to a lack of confirmation. We walk in the blazing heat towards Getsemani and the fort. Every now and then we drink a Limonada de Coco (so delicious, definitely try it) and head back to the old town. Even though we have explored the alleys the day before, we keep finding new beautiful buildings and details. Again and again we take breaks to eat and drink until the day is over.

Conclusion Cartagena: Yes, it is really touristy. But: it doesn't matter at all, because it is really beautiful. In some places it reminds me of Havana, in others of Mexican villages in colonial style. Great and worth seeing!

Of course, there is also a Columbus statue in Cartagena. Colourful houses, colourful flowers, hidden squares. That is Cartagena. Santa Marta

Day 19 - Cartagena to Santa Marta by bus

We are told we don't have to book a bus. So after breakfast we flag down a taxi to take us to the bus station. There we are lucky and get the last two tickets to Santa Marta. Even better, the bus leaves in 5 minutes. Almost 2 hours later we are in Baranqullia. Another three hours later we are in Santa Marta, one of the oldest colonial cities in Colombia.

For only 5000 COP, a taxi driver takes us to our accommodation, which is again in the old town. We have never taken a taxi so cheaply before. Afterwards, we go back to the old town without a plan, to explore the surrounding alleys and the Malecon (beach promenade) with the beach. There is also no shortage of food and fresh juices in Santa Marta. So we test ourselves again through various delicacies.

Accommodation in Santa Marta: Casa VerdeThe hotel has a beautiful courtyard (unfortunately the hammock has been removed), large rooms and a healthy breakfast. The location was great and the price-performance ratio was right.

Food tips: La Mulata (best Limonada de Coco. Always full, book or come early), La Cevicheria (ceviche, ceviche and more ceviche, plus a Limonada de Coco), Patio Casa Leon (great courtyard in the shade, good ceviche and fish dishes). In Cartagena there are arepas stands everywhere. Be sure to try them.

Note: If you have more time like we did, you should do the 4-day trek to the Ciudad Perdida be sure to do it.

Day 20 - Santa Marta

We get tips for beaches outside Santa Marta. But these are so close to our last accommodation or in the Tayrona National Park that we decide to visit them from our next places.

We stroll leisurely to the market, through the shopping streets of Santa Marta, where everywhere and somehow everything can be bought. At some point we get hungry and go back to the old town. Because here there is always a shady spot in a great restaurant or café.

Palomino

Day 21 - Santa Marta - Palomino

After a healthy breakfast (muesli with fruit, freshly squeezed orange-lulo juice) and coffee, we quickly pack up our things in a routine manner, check out and flag down a taxi on the street to take us to the departure point of the bus to Palomino for 5000 COP. As soon as we get on, the bus fills up and, as usual, is full to capacity. Some people have to stand.

Most people leave the bus at the entrance to the Tayrona National Park to go on a day trip. Some locals leave the bus a short time later to spend the day on what the locals call a dream beach. We drive an hour further to Palomino. I'm lucky that I can't see out the front, because the driver is driving at full throttle and brakes hard again and again. Better I don't see what the road looks like in front of us.

After 2 hours we arrive. The driver calls out "Palomino" briefly and almost all of the remaining passengers leave the bus. After checking in at the Hukumeizi Hotel we explore the beach area and relax in a hammock by the sea.

• 

• Dreamlike views from the beach when the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains are not covered in clouds.

Day 22 - 24 Relaxing in Palomino

I spend the next few days either reading in a hammock on the beach, taking walks on the beach or cooling off in the sea or pool. This is how I process the impressions of the last few weeks and gain new energy for the last few cities of the Colombia trip.

• Hammocks are hung everywhere in the shade of the trees and palms - a dream

• The pool at the Hukumeizi Hotel - if the current at the sea is too strong, this is a great place to cool off!

Tayrona National Park & Buritaca

Day 25 Drive from Palomino to Buritaca

On the way we got the tip for the great accommodation, the Viajero Hostel Tayrona & Ecohabs got. The accommodation was built by artists and architects and you can see that. The huts are spacious, there are hammocks all along the beach and the food is very good and plentiful.

The accommodation is not the cheapest, but we wanted to "treat ourselves" at the end of the trip.

Day 26 Day trip Tayrona National Park

From Buritaca it is only 13 km to the entrance of the Tayrona National Park. We organise a driver to get there before the "crowds". Why I'm glad I only did a day trip and didn't stay overnight I wrote in my article about the Tayrona National Park (with lots of pictures, tips and info).

Day 27 - 28 Merecumbe Hotel Buritaca

We can still use one day completely to relax in this beautiful complex. The food is excellent, the conversations with the other guests very entertaining.

On the penultimate day, we take a transfer to the airport for our flight to Cartagena from where we fly back to Bogotá.

Bogotá and return flight

We spend one evening in Bogotá and can finally go to the small bar/restaurant that was recommended to us before and during the trip, but was always closed: Capital Cocina y Café.

At Hotel Regina is where we spend the last night. It is right next to the Gold Museum and is cheap and clean.

In the morning we finally go on the Bogotá Graffiti Tour (highly recommended) and visit the Gold Museum before we take a taxi to the airport and fly back to Frankfurt via Madrid.