Exploring a bustling metropolis like Seoul can be daunting, but one surefire way to navigate the city's vast expanse is by following the mighty Han river. Flowing from east to west, this majestic river serves as a natural divider, splitting Seoul into its northern and southern regions, much like the Thames does in London. In fact, the importance of the Han river to the city is so significant that a 40km cycling trail runs alongside it, offering both locals and visitors a picturesque route to explore. If you're planning a visit to this energetic city, ensure your accommodation is strategically located to make the most of the sights. Finding hotels in Seoul near Chun Young Kim's House on www.seoulhotelspage.com can place you within comfortable reach of key attractions including Chun Young Kim’s historical house and the magnificent Han River. For a broader selection of accommodation options, you might consider tophotels.com, where you can explore a variety of top-rated hotels in Seoul to suit all budgets, allowing you to focus on soaking up the rich culture, history, and modern wonders of this incredible city.
Embarking on a five-day walk along the Han river, starting from the eastern fringes of Seoul, my partner Nick and I charted a route that would lead us westwards, passing through renowned spots like Itaewon – known for its killer martinis – and making a small detour north to Mount Namsan. This majestic peak, standing at 262m, holds a special place in Seoul's geography, as it is believed that the city was constructed around it to achieve a harmonious balance.
Our journey began in the suburb of Walkerhill, aptly named for its picturesque hillside location in the north-eastern district of Gwangjin. From our hotel, we expected to witness breathtaking views of the Han river and the city, but a dense white fog obscured everything from sight. Nevertheless, we could still hear the bustling traffic of the Gangbyeon Expressway and the Olympic Highway, emphasizing the proximity of the city's main arteries to the river.
As the hotel bus came to a stop, we were offered a ride into Seoul. Declining with determination, we made it clear that we had chosen to explore the city on foot.
The bus departed, leaving us to embark on our revealing stroll. Peering out of the windows, curious faces of Japanese shoppers gazed at us, seemingly questioning our decision to undertake this unconventional journey. Perhaps, like us, they were newcomers to Seoul, their minds eagerly absorbing every detail in an attempt to make sense of this vibrant metropolis.
In an effort to stay warm, we quickened our pace, warding off the bitter cold. The early hour ensured that the streets were relatively empty. Along the way, we passed an abandoned petrol station, a motorbike garage, and a small grocery store, its windows filled with tantalizing steam from nearby noodle shops.
Suddenly, we stumbled upon a supermarket, and I couldn't resist the urge to explore its aisles. While clothes shopping does not excite me, wandering through foreign supermarkets is like uncovering hidden treasures. Curiously named bags of crisps, bottles of ginseng, and intriguing cuts of meat filled the shelves, offering glimpses into the culture and tastes of the nation.
Stepping back onto the bustling streets of Seoul, we find ourselves waiting alongside a polite Korean gentleman named Mr. Park. Originally from Daegu, a city located 200km south of Seoul, he shares that he often visits for business and begins each day with a reflective stroll. As he smiles modestly, he emphasizes the importance of exercise and contemplation, proclaiming them as the key to a happy life.
Surprisingly, Mr. Park's English proficiency is exceptional, which he attributes to his time spent in the United States during his twenties. He explains that much of Korean society was heavily influenced by the American model, both culturally and as a result of learning from their experiences following the Korean War.
Despite its reputation as a cultural and influential hub dating back to the 1300s, Seoul's history has been marked by instances of invasion and occupation, a fact I hadn't anticipated learning a mere hour into our exploration.
After bidding us farewell at the Gwangnaru station, where we encounter Seoul's efficient underground network, Mr. Park departs while Nick and I proceed towards Gangbyeon, a bustling commuter hub. Our plan is to cross the river via the Jamsil bridge, which lies ahead. Among the sea of commuters, each adorned in the ubiquitous black padded coats that have become Seoul's winter uniform, we navigate through a complex intersection. In the midst of this urban flow, our attention is briefly captured by a Buddhist monk, who kneels in prayer on one of the small traffic islands.
The bustling streets outside the highly frequented rail and underground station are adorned with a collection of makeshift stalls offering an array of items, from magnifying glasses to socks and delicious skewers of barbecued chicken. As we ascend the ramp onto the expansive Jamsil bridge, our eyes are immediately captivated by the Han River - a formidable, flinty grey expanse stretching one kilometer wide. Beyond the river, the sprawling city emerges, casting its shadow over the landscape. Seoul, a behemoth of a city, showcases an unwavering skyline adorned with jagged high-rise buildings that seem to extend endlessly into the distance.
After walking for what feels like an eternity, we realize that despite our efforts, our progress across the bridge has been minimal. Meanwhile, the cyclists whizzing past us on the adjacent bike path exude boundless energy and a relentless forward momentum. Clad entirely in black, their faces obscured by plastic face masks and helmets, they resemble irate insects darting towards us.
On the southern bank of the river, a labyrinth of bustling roads gradually gives way to serene streets boasting grocery stores and refined patisseries, hinting at our arrival on the fringes of Gangnam, one of Seoul's most affluent neighborhoods. Over the next hour, the sight of mothers walking their children to school is replaced by neatly attired office workers donning black puffa jackets. The quaint shops progressively evolve into larger establishments, the streets widen, and towering office complexes seem to endlessly emerge. Finally, we reach our intended destination for a coffee break - Coex, the colossal shopping mall situated at the World Trade Center in Samsung-dong, which proudly holds the title of being the largest shopping mall in Asia.
Coex stands as a testament to Seoul's intriguing history of prosperity and challenges. Following the devastation of the Korean War, the city experienced a rapid process of industrialization known as the Miracle on the Han, propelling Seoul into the realm of economic and technological supremacy. Accompanying the city's fortunes, construction projects flourished, reaching such intensity during the 1970s that developers were compelled to venture underground in the quest for affordable space.
This resulted in the creation of an extensive network of subterranean shopping malls, hidden beneath Seoul's congested streets. Among these subterranean emporiums, Coex claims the throne, spanning an enormous 88,000 square meters. It offers a delightful array of shops, inviting food courts, state-of-the-art cinemas, and a mind-boggling 90-tank aquarium, where visitors can marvel at the presence of sharks, rays, and even penguins.
Exploring the bustling streets of Seoul can feel overwhelming at first, with the bright lights and endless stream of people flowing through the strip-lit avenues. Surrounded by popular global brands like Body Shop, Zara, and Nike, it's easy to get lost in this urban metropolis that never sleeps.
As we step outside into the brisk air, the energy of Gangnam sweeps us along its famous shopping district. Here, shoppers appear more youthful, fashionable, and thin, strolling down Brand Name Street. Venturing into the maze-like back alleys, every turn feels like a detour onto No Name Street, as we search for the river. Resorting to a traditional compass for guidance, we head north.
Downtown Seoul boasts an impressive twenty-seven bridges spanning the Han River. Crossing one of them on our way to Itaewon, we witness the Banpo Bridge transform into a mesmerizing light show against the backdrop of the evening sky. Delightful plumes of illuminated water shoot into the river, captivating the attention of families and young couples gathered on the riverbank.
Itaewon, once revered as Seoul's party-hard red-light district due to its proximity to US military presence, has evolved into a cosmopolitan nightlife hub. Despite its reputation, the main road, Itaewon-ro, appears eerily deserted on this chilly Monday night. In the dimly lit tapas bars and Argentinian fusion restaurants, couples seek solace from the cold, their faces pressed against the vast glass windows. In our quest for the perfect martini, we stumble upon a martini bar, only to find the owner and his three bartenders confuddled by a "how to make a martini" video on YouTube. It seems we won't be enjoying martinis here tonight.
Upon our arrival, my travel companion and I opted to stay at the IPBoutique hotel, a trendy establishment located in the Hannam-dong neighborhood of Yongsan-gu. Conveniently situated down the street, this hotel offered a comfortable escape from our exhausting day of exploring Seoul's vibrant streets.
Refreshed after a good night's sleep, we set out the next morning to Namsan Park, a sprawling oasis in the heart of the city. As we strolled through the park, we were greeted by a picturesque landscape of verdant lawns, leafy trails, and even witnessed locals engaging in calisthenics on the park's exercise equipment.
It was here, on the outskirts of the bustling city, that we marveled at the harmonious connection between urban life and the natural world. However, our gaze was soon drawn to the majestic presence of Mount Namsan, towering above everything else in misty grandeur. Perched atop the mountaintop, Seoul Tower captivated us with its futuristic design, offering panoramic views from its observatory.
Filled with anticipation, we decided to take a cable car to the summit, eager to witness the awe-inspiring cityscape that awaited us. Gradually ascending, our eyes were greeted with a breathtaking sight. Seoul's skyline unfolded before us, revealing a captivating cityscape nestled amidst a series of majestic mountains. Glistening skyscrapers traced a path through rugged valleys, stretching as far as the eye could see.
The excitement of our expedition led us to opt for a walk back down the mountain, but soon we began to feel the strain on our calf muscles. With each step along the bustling shopping streets of Myeong-dong, reminiscent of London's Oxford Street but offering an intriguing selection of snail gel moisturizers, and through Namdaemun market on Namchang-dong, where I even managed to get a pair of affordable glasses made, our tired legs protested. In the Ahyeon-dong neighborhood's Wedding Dress Street in Sinchon, we couldn't help but be captivated by the audacious display of flamboyant dresses adorning shop windows, resembling tropical birds demanding attention.
In the hidden alleyways near Ewha Women's University, we enjoy a cup of coffee while chatting with dedicated students. Venture into the vibrant Hongdae University district, and let popular bloggers Martina and Simon from EatyourKimChi lead you to the trendy Vinyl bar in Seokyo-dong, Mapo-gu. At this unique establishment, you can savor delicious cocktails served in IV bags and indulge in mouthwatering carrot cake ice cream.As we cross back over the river at Yoido, the once daunting atmosphere of Seoul seems more approachable than our previous visit. We have successfully divided the city into manageable portions, making it easier to navigate. For a serene conclusion to our walk, we find solace in the grand Pentecostal church located in Yoido's Yeoeuido-dong. The sheer magnitude of the church is awe-inspiring, resembling a united gathering of prayer from around the world. Join the congregation of 10,000 members as they sing in harmony with a colossal gospel choir, evoking a new and somewhat bewildering experience. Thankfully, we have chosen to relax and take in the moment from the comfort of our seats.